Wool Shrinkproofing by Chemical and Enzymatic Methods
The uniqueness of wool, its functionality, morphology, physical/mechanical behavior, and aesthetics, continue to be topics for innovative research to improve properties and create novel products. The perennial problems of yellowness, discomfort in wear, and shrinkage have been addressed over time as isolated and combined topics of investigations altering morphology and chemistry with processes designed to prevent or limit negative impact on wools appearance and performance. Chemical bleaching with alkaline peroxide and shrinkproofing with chlorination have limited economy and ecological acceptance. The ARS Process for bleaching, biopolishing, and shrinkproofing wool requires near-room-temperature conditions with short exposure times to reach high levels of whiteness, softness, and dimensional stability, and the design has implications for sustainability with low energy and low impact on the environment. Scanning electron micrographs of fibers from ARS-treated fabrics showed erosion of wools surface scales without fiber damage to limit felting shrinkage to less than 2％, the indication of a mercerizing effect on cotton limiting shrinkage to 4％, and complete shrinkage control of viscose challis. After processing, the mechanical properties of the fabrics and the structural integrity of the fibers were preserved. High concentration ARS bleaching when applied with high concentrations of bath constituents produced parchment wool jersey fabric with permanent stiffness and 45.5 ％ increase in sheerness as determined pixel segmentation using digital image analysis to isolate yarn intersticies. The ARS Process is described as a novel development based outcomes and findings of past investigations of chlorination, conventional alkaline bleaching and enzyme treatment to control the dimensional stability of wool.
CARDAMONE Jeanette M
U.S.Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Eastern Regional Research Center,Wyndmoor, PA 19038, USA
国际会议
The 12th International Wool Research Conference(第十二届国际羊毛会议12th IWRC)
上海
英文
166-180
2010-10-19（万方平台首次上网日期，不代表论文的发表时间）