The making process of Qing dragon robe
As the dedicated costume for the emperor and the queen, Long Pao or dragon robe in Qin dynasty had performed the top ancient skill of garment making in China. Different from the robe from other time, there were altogether seven sections such as the horsehoof cuffs ( a pair), the lower sleeves (a pair), the body section (three separated parts), neck decorates (neck band & front to right band), edges, button and lining, as well as an extra standing collar sometime for a Qing dragon robe. When making a dragon robe it was always constructed by different departments. First, similar to that of modern fashion design, a color drawing where the fabric and the decoration were settled was done by the Ruyi house which belong to Manufacturing department in imperial palace, in addition, the decoration for a dragon robe were mainly the embroidered, tapestry, brocade satin and weave plus brocade satin (or plus drawing sometime), each of them was of extremely high skill. Second, the manufacturing of body section was assigned to the specialists in Jiangnan trio of imperial Qing weaving, the Qing imperial weaving department. The third, when making of neck decorates, collar, sleeves, edges and button, the neck decorates was done in the palace if it was brocaded, while tapestry one would to be done along with the body section. The Lower sleeves, commonly, were mot used plain fabric in Qing style, it could be made at least in eight different kinds of way. Fourth, the other work, including the lining cut, sewing, making and assembling the buttons, was always done in the palace. At last, the imperial was always strict with the detailed procedure and quality control according to the clear standard during making a dragon robe in Qing dynasty.
Wang-Yehong Zhao Feng
Textile college Donghua University, Shanghai 200051 P.R.C Fashion college Donghua University, Shanghai 200051 P.R.C
国际会议
上海
英文
1271-1274
2009-05-27(万方平台首次上网日期,不代表论文的发表时间)