LARGE WAVE SIMULATION OF SPILLING BREAKERS OVER IMMERSED LONGSHORE BAR
A numerical simulation model is presented for two dimensional wave propagation and breaking. The model is based on Large Wave Simulation (LWS) theory for spilling wave breaking. The flow equations are the two-dimensional Euler equations, subject to nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. Large scale velocities and free surface elevation are fully resolved and subgrid scale effect is modeled by a stress model. The application of LWS is aided by a boundary-fitted transformation, which introduces free-surface elevation terms in the Euler equations and simplifies the numerical solution. The waves are propagating over a longshore bar, located at a constant-slope (1:35) bottom. For the numerical simulation, a hybrid scheme is used, consisting of central differences along the propagation direction and pseudo-spectral approximation along the gravity direction. Time integration is achieved by a two-stage fractional time-step scheme. At each time step, a generalized Poisson equation is solved for the calculation of the pressure head. The position of the free surface is calculated by the kinematic boundary condition and at the inflow plane, a Stokes wave is considered.An absorption zone is imposed at the outflow region. Results show that the existence of the longhsore bar causes wave reflection up-stream and accelerates breaking incipient downstream.
wave propagation wave breaking large wave simulation immersed beach bar
Aggelos S.Dimakopoulos Athanassios A.Dimas
M.Se.of Civil Engineering, Dept.of Civil Engineering, University of Patras Dept.of Civil Engineering, University of Patras
国际会议
第16届亚太地区国际水利学大会暨第3届水工水力学国际研讨会(16th IAHR-APD Congress and 3rd Symoposium of IAHR-ISHS)
南京
英文
1190-1194
2008-10-20（万方平台首次上网日期，不代表论文的发表时间）