NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF RANDOM WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER COMPLICATED BATHYMETRIC AND GEOMETRIC COASTS
WABED is a spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with a diffraction term formulated from a parabolic approximation wave theory and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking parameterized by the bore-based formulation of Battjes and Janssen with a breaker height of 0.73 times the water depth. A forward-marching, first order upwind finite-difference method is used to solve the governing equation and thus solutions in the wave propagation direction are obtained at each forward marching step, and statistical quantities are calculated at each row before moving to next row.This model is applied to simulating random waves transformation over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features, where strong wave-induced nearshore currents may develop due to wave energy convergence or divergence and inversely significantly modify the overall redistribution of wave fields. The modeled wave filed is different from experiments when current is excluded, but model results considering currents accurately capture the phenomenon of wave height intensification in front of concave shorelines. The statistics indicate that the mean errors in wave height prediction are 5.42％ and 7.67％, and the values of correlation coefficient are 0.94 and 0.92 for uni-direction and multi-direction incident waves respectively. The satisfactory performance indicates the present phase averaging model is a robust engineering tool for predicting the transformation of multidirectional random waves over a complicated bathymetry,where refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and coupled current and depth limited breaking are simultaneously important, when an accurate current field are provided.
Jinhai Zheng Hajime Mase
MOE Key Laboratory of Coastal Disaster and Defence, Hohai University, 1Xikang Road, Nanjing,China Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Gokasho, Uji, Kyoto 611-0011, Japan
国际会议
第四届亚太地区海岸会议(the Fourth International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts)
南京
英文
2007-09-21（万方平台首次上网日期，不代表论文的发表时间）